Savoring the Goodness of Life with the Tip of the Tongue

1 Radish and Vinegar Fish

[Ingredients]
Fish (middle section of crucian carp)……200 g
Monosodium glutamate (MSG)…………1 g
White radish………100 g
Rice vinegar…………22.5 g
Chopped green onion…………5 g
Ground white pepper………0.5 g
Ginger (minced)…………2.5 g
Water starch…………20 g
Shaoxing wine…………15 g
Sesame oil…………15 g
Soy sauce…………27.5 g
Rendered lard…………50 g
White sugar…………20 g

[Cooking Instructions]

  1. Cut the middle section of the fish into 4 cm long pieces. Wash and peel the white radish, then cut into 4 cm long, 1 cm wide and thick strips. Blanch the radish in boiling water until partially cooked, then drain.
  2. Heat a wok over high heat. Add a little oil and swirl to coat the wok. Pour out the excess oil. Heat the rendered lard until hot, then stir-fry chopped green onion and minced ginger until fragrant. Add the fish pieces and lightly sear. Shake the wok, then add Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, white sugar, radish, and 150 g of boiling water. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 5 minutes until the fish is cooked and the sauce thickens.
  3. Increase heat to high and gently stir the mixture. Add monosodium glutamate and rice vinegar. Thicken the sauce with water starch, stir-fry briefly, then drizzle with sesame oil and sprinkle with ground white pepper. Transfer to a serving dish and serve immediately.

[Culinary Notes]
Avoid overcooking the fish or making it too firm. The radish should be cooked until tender together with the fish. Thicken the sauce until it is clear and shiny using water starch.

[Flavor Profile]
Radish and Vinegar Fish is a traditional home-cooked dish in Shanghai during the winter season. It combines crucian carp with locally grown white radish, flavored primarily with soy sauce, sugar, and vinegar. The dish has a reddish-brown color, with a savory-sweet taste and a hint of acidity. The fish is tender and the overall flavor is refreshing and light.

2 Steamed Grass Carp with Tofu

[Ingredients]
Grass carp (middle section)……250 g
Shaoxing wine…………10 g
Silken tofu………250 g
Soy sauce…………60 g
Green vegetable stems…………50 g
Salt…………4.5 g
Bamboo shoots (sliced)…………25 g
White sugar…………1 g
Green garlic (cut into segments)…………5 g
Monosodium glutamate (MSG)…………1.5 g
Vegetable oil…………50 g
Rendered lard…………50 g

[Cooking Instructions]

  1. Rinse the middle section of the grass carp and cut along the back into two pieces, then slice into pieces that are 5 cm long and 2 cm wide. Cut the tofu into rectangular pieces, each about 2 cm long and 3 cm wide. Slice the bamboo shoots into thin slices (0.3 cm). Wash the green vegetable stems, chop finely, and mix with 3 g of salt. Knead until the water is released and the color deepens, then press firmly to form salted vegetables. Let it marinate for over 10 minutes, then squeeze out excess water.
  2. Heat a wok over high heat, add a little oil and swirl to coat. Add vegetable oil and heat until it’s 80% hot. Briefly sear the fish pieces, then add Shaoxing wine and cover to simmer briefly. Add soy sauce, 1.5 g of salt, white sugar, and stir until the color changes. Pour in 500 g of boiling water, cover, and simmer over low heat for 3 minutes. Add tofu, bamboo shoots, and 25 g of rendered lard, then simmer for another 3 minutes. Increase the heat, add the salted vegetables and MSG, and simmer until the sauce thickens. Finally, drizzle with 25 g of rendered lard, sprinkle with green garlic, and transfer to a serving dish.

[Culinary Notes]

  1. When frying the fish pieces, flip them once to lightly brown both sides. Avoid frying until they are firm and yellow, as this will alter the dish’s characteristic flavors.
  2. Ensure the fish is cooked before adding the salted vegetables to maintain the freshness of the green vegetables and retain the rustic flavor.

[Flavor Profile]

  1. “Steamed” refers to freshly cooked dishes in Chinese culinary terms, contrasting with pre-cooked dishes. In the past, restaurants often had pre-cooked dishes ready near the cashier for quick selection, which were economical and convenient. If a customer ordered separately, dishes were freshly prepared and labeled “steamed” to differentiate.
  2. Steamed Grass Carp with Tofu, accompanied by homemade salted vegetables, has a unique fresh aroma and taste. The fish is tender, the broth is rich, the tofu is smooth and delightful, and it retains a rustic flavor.

3 Fish and Lees Soup

[Ingredients]
Middle section of crucian carp……500 g
Monosodium glutamate (MSG)…………5 g
Rendered lard…………50 g
Yellow wine (Chinese cooking wine)…………25 g
Fermented rice lees (香糟)…………100 g
Salt…………7 g
Bamboo shoots (sliced)…………100 g
Fish broth…………750 g

[Cooking Instructions]

  1. Clean the middle section of the crucian carp, cut into pieces that are 6 cm long and 2 cm wide, and place them in a bowl. Add 2 g of salt, mix well, and place the fermented rice lees in another bowl. Add yellow wine and 100 g of water to dilute the lees. Marinate the fish pieces in this mixture for about four hours to make marinated fish with lees. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and drain.
  2. Heat a pot and add the fish broth, bamboo shoots, fish pieces, and 7 g of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, skim off any foam that forms, add monosodium glutamate, then reduce heat and simmer for about 5 minutes until the soup turns white.

[Culinary Notes]
If bamboo shoots are unavailable, you can also use chopped cabbage stems as a substitute.

[Flavor Profile]
This dish features a clear and fresh broth with tender and flavorful fish, making it delicious and appetizing.

4 Braised White Peach Fish Cheeks

[Ingredients]
10 pieces of fish cheeks from crucian carp……500 g
Rendered lard…………60 g
White sugar…………13 g
Bamboo shoots (sliced)…………25 g
Monosodium glutamate (MSG)…………1.5 g
Green onion (cut into segments)…………1 g
Minced ginger…………1 g
Shaoxing wine…………15 g
Water starch…………15 g
Soy sauce…………25 g
Sesame oil…………5 g

[Cooking Instructions]

  1. Trim the sides of the fish cheeks, leaving the fish eyes and the surrounding flesh intact. Slice the bamboo shoots into strips.
  2. Heat a wok over high heat, add oil and heat the rendered lard (40 g). Stir-fry the green onion segments until fragrant. Place the fish eyes facing down into the hot oil, quickly shake the wok a few times, then flip the fish cheeks so that the eyes face upwards. Sear briefly, then add Shaoxing wine and cover to simmer for a moment. Next, add soy sauce, white sugar, minced ginger, bamboo shoots, and water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 6 minutes until the fish eyes swell and turn white.
  3. Increase heat to high to thicken the sauce, add monosodium glutamate, and thicken with water starch until the sauce coats the fish evenly. Flip the fish cheeks carefully so the eyes face downwards again. Shake the wok while drizzling with the remaining rendered lard (20 g) until the sauce becomes glossy. Immediately transfer to a serving dish, drizzle with sesame oil, and serve.

[Culinary Notes]

  1. To ensure the sauce coats the ingredients well, it’s crucial to thicken the sauce with starch before adding the oil.
  2. Master the technique of flipping the fish carefully to keep the pieces intact and avoid overlapping.

[Flavor Profile]
The “peach” part of the fish cheeks refers to the resemblance of the flesh around the fish eyes to white peaches. This dish features delicate and tender fish meat that is succulent and flavorful, leaving a lingering taste on the palate. The rich and glossy sauce highlights the distinctive flavors of Shanghai cuisine.

5 Sweet and Sour Pond Loach

[Ingredients]
Live pond loach………750 g
Soy sauce……………25 g
Thinly sliced ginger…………20 g
White sugar……………35 g
Green onion (white part)……………2 g
Sesame oil…………2 g
Minced ginger……………1 g
Cooking oil (for frying)……150 g
Shaoxing wine……………25 g
Fine salt……………2 g

[Cooking Instructions]

  1. Scale and clean the live pond loach, removing the gills and intestines from the gill cover. Trim off the fins and make two shallow cuts on each side of the fish. Push the lower jawbone of the fish lips into its mouth with your thumb to widen the mouth. Marinate with fine salt and Shaoxing wine (10 g) to help the fish skin contract for better frying and flavor absorption.
  2. Heat a wok over high heat, add cooking oil, and heat until it reaches 70-80% hot. Carefully add the marinated pond loach into the hot oil, fry until the inside is almost cooked. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Once the oil temperature rises again to 70-80% hot, return the pond loach to the wok and fry again until all moisture is expelled. Drain on a paper towel-lined plate.
  3. Leave about 25 g of oil in the wok, add green onion and minced ginger, stir briefly. Add Shaoxing wine (15 g), soy sauce, white sugar, and 50 g of water. Bring to a boil, simmer until the sauce thickens. Add the fried pond loach, stir gently to coat the fish with the sauce. Drizzle with sesame oil, transfer to a serving dish, and garnish with thinly sliced ginger.

[Culinary Notes]

  1. During initial preparation, remove scales and fins, and clean the loach by removing gills and intestines while keeping the liver and roe inside the fish.
  2. Marinating with salt first not only enhances flavor but also helps achieve a crispy texture during frying.

[Flavor Profile]
Pond loach, also known as mud loach, comes in black and brown-yellow varieties. It has a wide, flat head and a cylindrical body, with an exceptionally large mouth and can grow up to over 15 cm long. It is commonly found in ponds and is especially prized during spring when it spawns among blooming cauliflower, known as “cauliflower pond loach.” “Sweet and Sour Pond Loach” is a signature dish in Shanghai cuisine, characterized by its crispy texture, tender meat, and sweet, appetizing flavor.

6 Spring Bamboo Shoots and Pond Loach Slices

[Ingredients]
Live pond loach………750 g
Ground white pepper………0.3 g
Sliced cooked ham………15 g
Egg white…………1
Cleaned spring bamboo shoots……120 g
Cornstarch…………10 g
Dried black fungus (wood ear mushrooms), soaked……10 g
Water starch…………15 g
Pea shoots…………6 sprigs
Sesame oil…………10 g
Scallion-ginger wine sauce………15 g
Rendered lard………500 g
Fine salt……………2 g
(about 60 g)
MSG……………1 g
(about 60 g)

[Cooking Instructions]

  1. Scale, gut, and remove the head of the live pond loach. Divide the fish into two pieces along the backbone, removing the belly fish bone. Slice each piece diagonally into two slices, rinse thoroughly with water, drain, place on a plate, and marinate with scallion-ginger wine sauce (5 g), fine salt (1 g), and MSG (0.2 g). Add egg white and cornstarch, mix well to coat, and let it sit for a moment. Blanch the bamboo shoots in boiling water until cooked, then slice thinly into strips. Rinse the soaked wood ear mushrooms thoroughly. Mix scallion-ginger wine sauce (10 g), fine salt (1 g), MSG (0.8 g), ground white pepper, water starch, and 25 g of water in a bowl to make a slurry.
  2. Heat a wok over high heat, add rendered lard, and heat until 70-80% hot. Carefully add the fish slices to the hot oil, gently separate them with iron chopsticks. Fry until the fish slices turn milky white, then immediately drain using a slotted spoon.
  3. Leave some oil in the wok, stir-fry the bamboo shoots briefly, then add wood ear mushrooms, pea shoots, sliced cooked ham, and fish slices. Pour in the prepared slurry, stir gently to coat everything evenly. Add 20 g of rendered lard, stir to give a glossy finish, and drizzle with sesame oil to finish.

[Culinary Notes]

  1. Slice each piece of fish diagonally into two slices and rinse thoroughly to remove any blood stains, ensuring the fish meat is clean and free of any fishy odor.
  2. Add fish slices to the wok in batches, gently separating them with iron chopsticks to prevent sticking and maintain the integrity of the slices.

[Flavor Profile]
In the water towns of Jiangnan, where the river waters turn emerald green in spring and the rapeseed flowers bloom golden yellow, pond loach are at their plump and tender best. Combined with fresh spring bamboo shoots, the dish features tender and flavorful pond loach alongside crispy and fresh bamboo shoots, creating a seasonal delicacy that delights the senses.

7 Double Ear Fish Flakes

[Ingredients]
Hairtail fish meat………150 grams
Scallion-ginger wine sauce………15 grams
Pork fat………50 grams
Ground white pepper………0.5 grams
Dried white wood ear mushrooms……15 grams
Egg whites…………2
Dried black wood ear mushrooms……15 grams
Fine salt…………2.5 grams
Sliced cooked ham………10 grams
MSG……………1 gram
Pea shoots……………5 sprigs
Chicken clear soup………125 grams
Cornstarch…………5 grams
Rendered lard………1000 grams
Water starch…………10 grams
(approximately 75 grams)

[Cooking Method]

  1. Place a piece of pork skin on a chopping board with the inner side facing up. Chop the pork fat into coarse grains, then mince finely. Scrape the hairtail fish meat off the skin with a knife, removing any bones and placing it on the fresh pork skin. Mince the fish meat finely. Put both minced meats into a large bowl, add egg whites (2), chicken clear soup (40 grams), scallion-ginger wine sauce (5 grams), fine salt (1 gram), MSG (0.5 grams), and ground white pepper. Stir until well combined, then add cornstarch and mix thoroughly to form a smooth paste.
  2. Heat a wok over high heat, add rendered lard, and heat until 20-30% hot. Remove from heat, spread the paste thinly in the wok with a ladle to form crescent-shaped slices. Return the wok to heat over low heat, gradually increasing the temperature. When the paste turns slightly milky and opaque, use the ladle to gently push oil from the bottom of the wok to prevent sticking. When the oil reaches 30-40% hot, the fish flakes are cooked. Remove and drain using a slotted spoon.
  3. Leave some oil in the wok, add chicken clear soup (55 grams), scallion-ginger wine sauce (10 grams), fine salt (1.5 grams), MSG (0.5 grams), and add dried black and white wood ear mushrooms, sliced cooked ham, and pea shoots. Simmer briefly. Add water starch to thicken the sauce, stir gently, then add the fish flakes, toss gently until coated. Drizzle with rendered lard to enhance glossiness. Serve immediately.

[Culinary Tips]

  1. Place meat skin on the chopping board to prevent wood shavings from mixing in during chopping.
  2. Mince the fish meat finely so that it becomes smooth when rubbed between fingers.
  3. Stir the fish meat mixture in one direction to achieve a firm texture.

[Flavor Profile]
Double Ear Fish Flakes are made from tender fresh hairtail fish meat, delicately cooked to achieve a fluffy, white texture. Combined with dried black and white wood ear mushrooms and enhanced with the color and flavor of sliced cooked ham, this dish is a traditional Shanghai delicacy highly favored by diners.

8 Deep-Fried Roasted Fish

[Ingredients]
Female ribbon fish……………………1000 grams
Scallion knots……………10 grams
Ginger slices……………1 gram
Shaoxing wine……………50 grams
Cumin seeds…………1 gram
Soy sauce…………100 grams
Cinnamon……………1 gram
Fine salt……………60 grams
Peanut oil………1500 grams
White sugar……………90 grams
(approximately 150 grams)
MSG……………2 grams

[Cooking Method]

  1. Place the ribbon fish in a large bowl, add fine salt (50 grams), and gently rub to remove the scales. Use your thumb and forefinger to pinch and pull off the head and innards along with the backbone, being careful to leave the fish roe inside. Rinse thoroughly and drain. Place the fish back in the bowl, add soy sauce (50 grams) and Shaoxing wine (25 grams), mix well to marinate.
  2. Heat a wok over high heat, add peanut oil (50 grams), heat until it reaches 90% hot, add scallion knots, stir-fry until fragrant. Add Shaoxing wine (25 grams), soy sauce (50 grams), fine salt (1 gram), white sugar, cumin seeds, cinnamon, ginger slices, and 250 grams of water. Bring to a boil over high heat until the sauce thickens. Reduce heat to low to keep warm.
  3. Heat a wok over high heat, add peanut oil, heat until it reaches 80% hot. Drain the marinated fish in a colander, then carefully add it to the hot oil. Fry until it reaches 90% hot, then remove from the oil. Allow the oil temperature to rise again to 80% hot, then fry the fish until golden brown and floating. Remove from oil and immediately immerse in the warm marinade.

[Culinary Tips]
Fry the ribbon fish until fully cooked. Immerse it in the marinade while hot to achieve a sizzling sound and enhanced flavor.

[Flavor Profile]
Roasted fish, scientifically known as Trichiurus lepturus and commonly known as ribbon fish, has a slender, silver body approximately 10 centimeters long with an elongated tail. It inhabits oceans and migrates to the Yangtze River to spawn from late spring to early summer. This dish uses female ribbon fish, fried until crispy and then immersed in hot marinade. The fish roe inside the abdomen adds a tender texture, crispy outer layer, and a savory-sweet taste. It is a seasonal delicacy popular in the Shanghai region.

9 Braised Yellow Croaker with Pork

[Ingredients]
Yellow croaker roe………150 grams
Green onions (spring onions)………5 grams
Pork ribs……250 grams
Ginger slices………5 grams
Shaoxing wine………25 grams
Meat broth………150 grams
Soy sauce………25 grams
Sesame oil………5 grams
White sugar………40 grams
Rendered pork fat………50 grams
MSG……0.5 grams

[Cooking Method]

  1. Clean the fish roe thoroughly, remove the head and tail, and cut the fish meat into rectangular pieces about 5 cm long and 3 cm wide. Cut the pork ribs into similar thick slices, blanch briefly in boiling water, then rinse and drain.
  2. Heat a wok over high heat, add rendered pork fat (25 grams), stir-fry the pork slices until they change color. Add soy sauce, Shaoxing wine (10 grams), and white sugar. Stir-fry until the ingredients are well-coated and caramelized. Add water, green onions, and ginger slices. Cover and simmer over low heat until the pork slices are tender.
  3. Add the fish roe pieces, Shaoxing wine (15 grams), and meat broth. Cover and continue to simmer over low heat for about 10 minutes, until both the pork and fish roe are tender. Increase the heat to reduce the sauce. Finally, add rendered pork fat (25 grams), MSG, and drizzle with sesame oil.

[Culinary Tips]

  1. Quickly sear the fish roe over high heat to facilitate easy cleaning.
  2. When stir-frying the pork slices, add enough water to just cover them.

[Flavor Profile]
Fish roe, known as “yu,” is a seafood product. “White yu” refers to the roe of large yellow croaker, prized for its firm texture and white color. This dish combines fish roe with pork, creating a tender texture with a rich fish roe aroma complemented by the savory taste of pork. It’s a popular home-cooked dish in Shanghai, loved for its unique blend of flavors that satisfy every palate.

10 Braised Softshell Turtle with Rock Sugar

[Ingredients]
Softshell turtle…………750 grams
Dark soy sauce…………30 grams
Green onion (spring onion)……1 piece
Rock sugar…………75 grams
Ginger slices…………3 pieces
Rendered pork fat…………65 grams
Shaoxing wine…………25 grams
Peanut oil…………35 grams
Salt…………2 grams

[Cooking Method]

  1. Place the softshell turtle upside down, grasp its neck quickly with fingers, pull it out forcefully, and snap the neck bone at the shell’s back. Immerse it in hot water at 90°C to bleed. When white foam appears on the shell, remove it and clean the white membranes from the belly, legs, and skirt in cold water. Scrub off the black membranes on the shell with a brush, open the belly to remove the innards, and cut off the head, tail, and claw tips. Cut evenly into 8 pieces, blanch in boiling water, rinse with clean water, and tear off the blood vessels, clots, and yellow fat.
  2. Heat a wok over high heat, add peanut oil, heat until it’s 80% hot, add green onion and ginger slices to stir-fry until fragrant. Add the softshell turtle pieces (belly down), splash with Shaoxing wine, cover and simmer briefly. Add 750 grams of water, bring to a boil, then simmer over low heat for about 25 minutes. When the turtle pieces are tender and no longer elastic, add dark soy sauce, salt, rock sugar, and rendered pork fat (35 grams). Cover and simmer for another 20 minutes until the turtle meat and skirt are soft and sticky.
  3. Increase the heat to reduce the sauce, gently shake the wok while ladling the sauce over the turtle pieces. When the sauce thickens and becomes sticky, drizzle with rendered pork fat (25 grams) and continue shaking the wok over medium heat until the sauce thickens into a gel-like consistency. Finally, drizzle with the remaining rendered pork fat (5 grams), shake the wok, and it’s ready to serve.

[Culinary Tips]
Boil vigorously at first, simmer gently until cooked, then add salt, soy sauce, and rock sugar for seasoning. Increase the heat to reduce the sauce, medium heat to blend, and finish with a sweet initial taste followed by a savory finish, creating a distinct flavor.

[Flavor Profile]
During April and May each year, when cauliflower blooms in the Jiangnan region, softshell turtles are at their fattest and most delicious. Known as “caihua jayu” (cauliflower softshell turtle), this period is ideal for making braised softshell turtle with rock sugar. The rock sugar easily thickens the sauce, combined with the gelatinous texture of the softshell turtle, resulting in a rich and flavorful dish with a sweet initial taste and savory finish, making it a traditional favorite in Shanghai cuisine.